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Ocean Waves and Coastal Processes Quiz

#1

Which of the following factors primarily determines wave height?

Wind speed
Explanation

Wind speed is the primary determinant of wave height.

#2

What is the most common type of coastal erosion?

Abrasion
Explanation

Abrasion is the predominant form of coastal erosion.

#3

What is the term used to describe the rise and fall of ocean water level caused by gravitational forces of the moon and sun?

Tide
Explanation

Tides refer to the cyclic rise and fall of ocean water due to gravitational forces.

#4

Which type of coastline typically has long stretches of sandy beaches?

Submergent coastline
Explanation

Submergent coastlines often feature long sandy beaches.

#5

Which of the following describes a constructive wave interference?

Waves amplify each other
Explanation

Constructive interference results in waves reinforcing each other.

#6

Which phenomenon causes the bending of waves as they approach the coast?

Refraction
Explanation

Refraction causes waves to bend as they near the coastline.

#7

What is the primary driving force behind longshore drift?

Wind
Explanation

Wind primarily drives longshore drift.

#8

What is the term for the time it takes for one full wavelength to pass a fixed point?

Wave period
Explanation

Wave period is the duration of one complete wave cycle.

#9

Which of the following is NOT a factor influencing wave size and strength?

Water temperature
Explanation

Water temperature does not significantly influence wave size or strength.

#10

Which of the following coastal features is created by wave erosion and typically has a flat top?

Wave-cut platform
Explanation

A Wave-cut platform is formed by wave erosion and usually has a flat top.

#11

Which coastal feature is formed by the erosion of headlands and the deposition of sediment in bays?

Spit
Explanation

A Spit forms from headland erosion and bay sediment deposition.

#12

What is the primary factor determining the size and shape of coastal landforms?

Wave energy
Explanation

Wave energy is the main determinant of coastal landform size and shape.

#13

What is the term for the movement of water caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and sun?

Tide
Explanation

Tide results from the gravitational pull of the moon and sun.

#14

What is the term for the process where sediment is deposited by a receding wave, forming ridges parallel to the shoreline?

Swash
Explanation

Swash refers to sediment deposition forming ridges parallel to the shoreline.

#15

What term describes the retreat of a cliff face caused by the hydraulic pressure of waves forcing air into cracks?

Wave hydraulic action
Explanation

Wave hydraulic action causes the retreat of a cliff face by forcing air into cracks.

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